Fragrance families
Different authorities count and name them differently – we use the ten families you meet most often in practice.
Why classifications differ
The French Société Française des Parfumeurs published its first classification in 1984 with five families (floral, chypre, fougère, amber, leather). Hespéridés (citrus) and woody were added in 1990, and sub-families in 1998. Today it works with seven families.
In 1983 the consultant Michael Edwards created a system arranged in a wheel, in which he now distinguishes five main families – floral, amber, woody, aromatic fougère and fresh – each with sub-groups.
A fragrance family is an aid to orientation, not a law of nature.
Other sources treat gourmand, aquatic or green fragrances as separate families; others again list them as sub-families. So the same fragrance can be classified differently on two websites – and both can be right within their own system.
- Citrus hespéridés / citrus Fragrances built on the essential oils of citrus peel: bergamot, lemon, orange, mandarin, grapefruit. Notes from the atlas: Bergamot, Neroli
- Floral floraux / floral Perfumery’s largest family: from a single flower (soliflore) to bouquets and powdery, aldehydic or fruity variations. Notes from the atlas: Rose, Jasmine, Iris (orris), Neroli, Musk
- Chypre chypré / chypre The contrast of citrus and forest moss. Named after the fragrance Chypre (Coty, 1917). Notes from the atlas: Bergamot, Patchouli, Rose, Jasmine
- Fougère fougère / aromatic fougère Literally “fern”, although ferns barely smell. An accord of lavender, coumarin and oakmoss. Notes from the atlas: Lavender, Tonka bean, Bergamot, Vetiver
- Amber (oriental) ambrés (orientaux) / amber Warm fragrances of resins, balsams, vanilla and spice. The older label “oriental” is now often replaced by “amber”. Notes from the atlas: Amber, Vanilla, Tonka bean, Patchouli, Sandalwood
- Woody boisés / woody Fragrances in which woods, roots and dry resins play the lead: cedarwood, sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, oud. Notes from the atlas: Cedarwood, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Oud, Patchouli
- Gourmand gourmand Fragrances that recall food: vanilla, caramel, praline, coffee, honey. Notes from the atlas: Vanilla, Tonka bean
- Aquatic and ozonic aquatic / marine / ozonic The impression of water, sea air and damp ozone. A family that only came into being thanks to synthetic molecules. Notes from the atlas: Bergamot, Musk
- Green vert / green The smell of snapped stems, leaves and grass. Slightly bitter and dry. Notes from the atlas: Vetiver, Lavender, Neroli
- Leather cuirs / leather The smell of tanned leather, smoke and birch tar. Notes from the atlas: Oud, Patchouli