Chypre
The contrast of citrus and forest moss. Named after the fragrance Chypre (Coty, 1917).
Bergamot on top, resinous labdanum in the heart, oakmoss and patchouli in the base; often with rose or jasmine.
Also known as: chypré / chypre
Chypre is French for Cyprus. François Coty’s 1917 fragrance is regarded as the first composition built on the bergamot – labdanum – oakmoss accord, and it gave its name to the whole family.
Oakmoss (Evernia prunastri) is now regulated in the EU: its presence must be stated on the label, and the atranol and chloroatranol it contains are banned in cosmetics. Modern chypres therefore use treated extracts or substitutes and smell different from historical ones.