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A magazine about scent and what the label says

PARFUMÉRIA ZET

Note Atlas

Vanilla

Vanilla planifolia

The pod of a tropical orchid that only starts to smell after curing. Sweet, creamy, balsamic.

Drawing of Vanilla with three scent blotters
Drawn in code. The frame is ready for a photograph.

The note’s label

Family
gourmand note; among fragrance families, gourmand
Position
○ top ○ heart ● base base note
Impression
Pairs with
Evokes
dessert · a warm jumper · wood with milk
Raw material
fermented (cured) pods of an orchid
Natural or synthetic
Natural extracts (absolute, CO₂ extract) are used, but most of the vanilla effect in perfumes comes from synthetic vanillin and ethyl vanillin.

How the scent develops

A fresh green vanilla pod has almost no smell. Vanillin and other aromatic compounds are released only during curing – repeated heating, sweating and drying.

Vanillin is also made synthetically today; it is one of the most widely used aroma chemicals of all.

In perfume

Vanilla is a base note of gourmand and amber fragrances. In the amber accord it adds sweetness to labdanum and balsams.

On the label

Vanillin joined the allergen list in 2023 – it must be listed above 0.001% in leave-on products.

In the fragrance archive

Our archive does not yet contain a fragrance whose published pyramid lists this note.

The archive is for reading only. Nothing in it is for sale.

On cosmetics labels