Oud
Aquilaria spp., Gyrinops spp.
Agarwood: the resin a tree produces to defend itself against infection. A smoky, leathery, animalic and medicinal scent.
The note’s label
- Family
- woody note; among fragrance families, woody
- Position
- base note
- Impression
- Pairs with
- Evokes
- incense · old leather · dark wood
- Raw material
- resin-saturated wood from an infected tree
- Natural or synthetic
- Genuine oud is rare and expensive. All species of the genus Aquilaria have been listed in CITES Appendix II since 2004. Most perfumes therefore use an oud accord made from synthetics and other natural materials.
How it forms
Healthy Aquilaria wood has no smell. Only when the tree is attacked by a mould (or wounded) does it start producing a dark, fragrant resin that saturates the wood. The process is slow and unpredictable.
Agarwood also comes from trees of the related genus Gyrinops.
In perfume
Oud is typical of Middle Eastern perfumery, where it is also worn on its own as an oil. In Western fragrances it is usually represented by an accord and is often paired with rose.
Protection
The first species (Aquilaria malaccensis) was listed in CITES Appendix II in 1995; all species of the genus followed in 2004. International trade therefore requires permits.
In the fragrance archive
Our archive does not yet contain a fragrance whose published pyramid lists this note.
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