Musk
Originally an animal material, today almost exclusively synthetic. Musk gives fragrances the impression of clean skin.
The note’s label
- Family
- musky note; among fragrance families, floral
- Position
- base note
- Impression
- Pairs with
- Evokes
- clean skin · linen · cashmere
- Raw material
- synthetic molecules (historically the gland of the musk deer)
- Natural or synthetic
- Natural musk from the musk deer is practically no longer used in perfumery: obtaining it means killing an endangered animal, and trade in it is controlled under CITES. Almost all musk notes are synthetic.
From animal to molecule
Historical musk came from a gland of the male musk deer. Its main odorant is muscone. For ethical and economic reasons, perfumery has been replacing it with synthetic musks since the late 19th century.
Synthetic musks fall into three groups: nitro musks (now in decline), polycyclic and macrocyclic. Macrocyclic musks are chemically closest to natural muscone and are seen as the way forward.
A plant alternative is ambrette seed (musk mallow), which contains macrocyclic lactones with a musky smell.
In perfume
Musk prolongs a fragrance, softens its drydown and adds a “skin” effect. The marketing term “white musk” refers to clean, laundry-like synthetic musks.
On the label
Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 also added two common synthetic musks to the allergens: the polycyclic Hexamethylindanopyran and the macrocyclic Hexadecanolactone.
In the fragrance archive
- Kenzo Kenzo pour Homme (1991)
- Azzaro Silver Black (2005)
- Calvin Klein CK One (1994)
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